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I found a Smith & Wesson 12 gauge pump shotgun at a shop today. It was in VERY good shape (just needs a new forearm as it's cracked a little on the left side), and priced right. Problem is, I didn't even know S&W made shotguns until I ran across a mention of it in a forum post on-line a couple of days ago!
I know less than nothing about them, so I need some help. I am looking for whatever info I can get on them: Availability of parts, sources, history of S&W shotguns, exploded drawings, disassembly instructions, etc. I really need to know how to take it apart to clean it, and also where I can get a fore end for it (or, if one from another shotgun model/make will fit it, with or without modification).
2018-12-31 Smith & Wesson Gun Finder. Answer a few questions to find the right products for you. Many American scattergunners were weaned on a pump shotgun. And the pump action is still a favorite. Model 3000 Pump Shotguns from Smith and Wesson.
Sorry, I don't have much info about it right now. All that I know about it is: 26' or so barrel, pump action, 12 gauge (takes 2 3/4' or 3' shells) wood stock & forearm w/ checkering in some areas, blued finish w/ a gold-tone trigger.
If it's needed, I can call the shop next week to have them read it's markings to me over the phone, if that will help. I don't even have a model number off of it right now, though. Any and all info on this subject will be greatly appreciated!! I think I got a good shotgun, but I need some info on it. There were three S&W shotguns. The first was the ill-fated Model 916A and 916T. The 916 was supposedly made for S&W by Howa of Japan.
This was a copy of the old Nobel shotgun, and was an absolute disaster for S&W. The 916 suffered from poor quality control, and just a plain BAD design. It did serious damage to S&W's reputation, and was quickly discontinued. A later gun was made by Howa, and this was the S&W Model 3000 pump. This was a 'clone' of the Remington 870 pump gun.
At the time, S&W was attempting to corner the Police market. They already were the major police pistol maker, and they were offering lines of ammunition, holsters, handcuffs, and other police supplies. They thought they could take the police market away from Remington's 870 with the Model 3000. For a brief time, the 3000 did have somewhat of a 'cult' following among individual police officers, but Remington had, (and still has) the police shotgun market sewed up, with 95% PLUS of the market.
Few departments bought the Model 3000, mostly because they trusted the Remington 870, and had been badly burned by the infamous Winchester Model 1200/1300 fiasco. Mostly, the Model 3000 just didn't have anything 'extra' to offer over the time-tested Remington. Within a few years, S&W dropped the ammo, and holsters to 'Get back to their Core business of making pistols'. S&W also dropped the S&W/Howa Model 3000, which Mossberg picked up for a year or so, eventually dropping it also. The third S&W shotgun was the Howa-made Model 1000 auto shotgun. It too failed to gain a market over the Remington Model 1100, and when S&W dropped the 3000, the 1000 went with it. Again, Mossberg picked it up for a year or so, then dropped both, and the Howa Model 1000/3000 faded into oblivion.
Parts for the S&W models, 916, 1000, and 3000 can still be bought from Gun Parts Corporation, including some Police accessories like folding stocks, magazine extenders, and barrels for the 3000. Since the Model 3000 is a clone of the Remington 870, a Remington manual can be used to strip it. A Remington manual can be found here: If the gun you saw was the 916.PASS. If it was a 3000, these make fine shotguns.
Pull the slide back until the notch on the slide closest to the muzzle is over top of the slide-lock pin. While holding the slide back, push the slide-lock pin out (push from the right hand side of the gun). Slowly allow the slide to go forward. Release the hammer gently.
Pull the slide towards the muzzle and it should slide right off. Remove the guide rod and recoil spring from the underside of the slide. Then twist the barrel bushing at the muzzle and pull it out so that the barrel can move. Pull the barrel out from the underside of the slide. This is the least amount of disassembly needed for a proper cleaning. You will want to clean the barrel, inside and out, as well as the underside of the slide, and any other parts inside that may have dirt, oil, residue or other fowling. Re-oil the weapon and assemble using the steps above in reverse.
The pump-action Model 3000 was imported by Smith & Wesson in the early '80s to compete with the popular Remington 870. It's 'split lifter' feeding mechanism addressed the Model 870s biggest drawback, the possibility of a 'jam' if the operator 'short-stroked' the action while racking a fresh shell in to the chamber.
Not long after the introduction of the Model 3000, Remington finally got around to resolving that deficiency with the Model 870's design with the incorporation of the 'Flex Tab' modification. The Models 3000, along with the semi-auto Models 1000 and the centerfire Model 1500 line of rifles, were discontinued in 1984 when S&W's corporate parent Lear Siegler was acquired by Bangor Punta. The bad news is that few, if any parts are available are available for the Howa (Japan) made Models 3000. The good news is that those Models 3000 were well made, durable and very robust. A special edition with an extended magazine tube and a Choate side-folding stock kicked around for years in the trunks of California Highway Patrol cruisers.
Prices from $200 to $300 USD are often seen depending on wear. After S&W discontinued sales the Howa shotgun was marketed by Mossberg keeping the Model 3000 designation. I'm not sure how many years Mossberg sold them. Parts wise they are exactly the same.
Remove the magazine and clear the chamber. Make sure the gun is NOT loaded. Set the safety in the up 'fire' position. Pull the slide back just enough so the slide catch notch in the bottom left side of the slide is even with the front of the slide catch. If you pull the slide back far enough to engage the slide catch you have gone too far.
When the notch in the slide is over the pin of the slide catch push on the pin from the right side of the frame. The button like end of the pin is just above the trigger on the right side of the frame. Push in this 'button' you may need something like a pen if you cant push it with you finger. Fully remove the pin from the frame. Pull the slide forward out of the frame. Carefully remove the recoil spring and guide.
Rotate the barrel bushing to the left and remove from the slide. Pull the barrel up and out of the slide. This is the standard field strip for this gun.
Refer to a gun smith for further disassembling. With safety on, remove the magazine from the weapon. Cycle the action (pull back and release the slide) to eject any round still in the gun. Pull back the slide until the slide lock (on frame) is under the slide lock notch (on slide). Press the slide lock pin (sticks out of the right side of the frame) inward, toward the left side. Remove the slide lock lever from the left side of the gun.
Release the hammer forward gently. Pull the slide forward until it comes off the frame. Reassembly is pretty much the same process in reverse.
NNOTE - The 39-2 has a decocker instead of a safety. When you pull back the slide you must line up the pin end of the slide lock with the slide lock notch. Request an owner's manual from Smith and Wesson. The owners manual no longer contains disassembly instructions, probably because of liability reasons. Nor is a parts list and exploded diagram packed with the weapon as it used to be. It is interesting that in the past, before 1990, a smal l screwdriver that fit both the side plate screws and grip screw was packed with most revolvers from Smith and Wesson. These were not just for adjusting sights as they were packed with fixed sight revolvers.
A Smith and Wesson model 66-4 is a.357 magnum 6 shot K frame revolver of stainless steel construction. The -4 means fourth change. The Smith and Wesson J, K, L and N frame revolvers share the same basic procedure for disassembly and reassembly. To disassemble the revolver, first remove the grip screw from the left side of the revolver as the revolver barrel faces to the left. When the grips are removed the side plate will be fully visible.
Remove the screws from the side plate. To remove the side plate, hold the revolver to the horizontal position with the side plate facing down. Do not pry off the side plate as that will damage the side plate fit.
Sharply rap the now exposed grip frame with a wood or plastic hammer until the side plate loosens. Continue to rap, and the side plate will fall off along with the hammer block, so be sure it falls on a padded surface. At this point most internal parts will be visible and accessible. The cylinder can be removed by sliding the cylinder crane to the left and out of the frame, while holding the cylinder in place. The cylinder will now be free. Removal of the extractor rod and extractor will not be described here, but the extractor rod is threaded in reverse to prevent loosening while operating.
Caution: The extractor rod assembly is very often damaged in attempts to unscrew it. Also, it is necessary to support the extractor while unscrewing the extractor rod. To reassemble the revolver, do the above in reverse, making sure the hammer block has been replaced and the side plate seats correctly. You can tap on the side plate with a wood or plastic tool to seat it properly. Replace the cylinder crane and cylinder. Be sure the correct screw is used to hold the cylinder crane to the frame. Replace the remaining side plate screws in the correct place along with the grips and grip screw.
Holding back the hammer slightly, or with the hammer cocked, look in the gap between the hammer and frame to be sure the hammer block has been replaced. If not the side plate must be removed again and the hammer block must be added. A word of caution here: before making alterations or repairs know exactly what you are doing. Revolvers are delicate and expensive machinery.